SIZE & ALTERATIONS

I chose my size based on my upper bust measurement (38”) to make sure the shoulders and neck weren’t too big and then graded out for my full bust (42”), waist (36’) and hips (48”).  I fell just out of the size range for the lower hips so I added an extra inch.

I didn’t need to do any of my regular adjustments such as lowering the bust point a couple of inches, a full bust adjustment or a full bicep adjustment, as the pattern is a straight shape with no darts, using the elasticated drawstring to give the shape, and there was sufficient room in the arms.  I made a toile and was pleasantly surprised with the fit. 

 NOTIONS

 The notions I required for my chosen option were -

• Black zipper - open-ended zip 1 x 33.5/85cm
• Black poppers - 9 snap fasteners (8 needed but one for practicing!)
• Black elastic cord - 3 mm wide cord, 2.20 m long
• 4 cord locks
• 8 eyelets -  4 – 5 mm diameter
• Interfacing (0.90 m wide), 1.00 – 1.15 m
• Matching thread (2 x 100m)
• Microtex needle
• Sealing Tape

I paid £5.24 from eBay for ‘20M Seam Sealing Tape Iron Hot Melt Water-proof Coated Fabric Clothing Tent’. 

CONSTRUCTION

The pattern instructions are very clear, having comprehensive diagrams at every step.  There is also a QR code for a very helpful video showing the complete construction.  Although the video is in German it does have English subtitles.

The overall construction is methodical and accurate, something which I enjoy when following a pattern.

I was careful to use a pressing cloth when ironing on the right side of the fabric to prevent any damage to the UPVC coating. 

A coat isn’t complete without a coat hook & this pattern includes details of when and how to add one to the lining section.

To try and make the coat completely waterproof I taped most of the seams before adding the lining.  I made sure to tape all of the seams that were likely to be in contact with rainwater such as the shoulders,  hood & back of the neck, centre back seam & the back arm seam.  I didn’t tape the side and under arm seams.  The tape was easy to use & no more difficult than applying iron on interfacing, but it did add quite a lot of time to the overall make.  All of the seams with this pattern are pressed to one side and with the 1cm seam allowance it meant that I didn’t need to trim any seams to apply the tape, which was 2cm wide.  Again, I used a pressing cloth, & pressure without steam, to apply the tape ensuring the tape was stuck along all of the edges.  I’m yet to test the coat in the rain but hopefully I’ll stay nice and dry inside.

This other video tutorial by I am Jacques was also very useful to show the process of making a raincoat and it is in English.

This post was helpful regarding applying the tape.

I also refreshed myself about adding the grommets and snap fasteners as they’re not something I use very often.  It is vital to reinforce this fabric before inserting the eyelets and snap fasteners because the fabric is quite pliable, pulling to undo the snap fasters could potentially tear the fabric.  Similarly, when adding the eyelets, take care not to hit the rivet too many times as the metal edge started to dig into the fabric leading to a weakened area.  I managed to ‘save’ the rivet and fabric by applying some seam tape under the edges of the eyelet on the back of the fabric and small amounts of fabric glue on the front – so far so good!

Hemline eyelet kit - video.

Hemline heavy duty snaps - video.

I had difficulty machine sewing over the 3mm elastic cord to secure it as per the instructions, as the machine tangled the thread on the underside of the fabric (but it was visible from the front in places like the hood facing).  To make sure the ends were secure I hand stitched the cord ends into the seam allowances and tried to avoid the machine needle going over the elastic when top stitching.

The PVC fabric was generally easy to work with but I had to take care with top stitching.  I’ve not had any success using a Teflon machine foot in the past and tend to keep tension on the fabric to guide it through the machine.  A new microtex needle helped to avoid missed stitches.

One final change I made was to add the snap fasteners to the outside of the storm flap as I wanted the black fasteners to be visible.  The pattern suggests applying them to the inside of the storm, flap before stitching it to the coat, meaning they are hidden underneath the flap.

REVIEW

I’m very impressed with the design, pattern, instructions, style and fit of the jacket and it is exactly what I envisaged.  The fabric is perfect for a light raincoat & would also be ideal if choosing to line the fabric with quilted fabric as the pattern was designed for.  The fabric doesn’t crease making it ideal for travelling.

Although this coat is a simple style, the finishing touches make this project a lengthy process from top stitching every seam, applying waterproof seam tape, lining the coat & inserting the elastic cord and fasteners but these are what give the coat such a professional finish and the husband was actually very complementary when being my photographer and even asked me to make him a coat!

I now have a windproof, waterproof and thermos sealed coat that needs testing in a downpour!

Thank you to Minerva for such lovely fabric.